Which smells do you associate with France? What does France smell like?!
This question popped into my head when I was writing the post ‘Scent‘ . Having come up with a list of some of my favourite smells, I realised that several of them were linked to France.

When I was a teacher, I organised more trips to France than I care to remember! These included day trips – what a nightmare, they were – five day ‘taster’ trips and full-on two week exchanges. The age group varied too, from primary up to secondary. Bearing in mind that these were South London students, many of whom had never been to France or abroad, one of the first things they often remarked when stepping onto French soil, was ‘Ugh. what’s that smell?’
Admittedly, many countries do have a certain smell. If I think of trips to Morocco and Tunisia, for example, I think of spices, mint, orange blossom, leather and souks.
Here are some of the smells I do associate with France.
- Coffee
- Bread
- Lavender
- Perfume
- Garlic
- Cheese
- Oysters
- Tobacco
- Wine
- Pastis
But there are so many more and a list doesn’t do justice to any of these scents.

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When I think of coffee, in France, I’m not thinking instant coffee but strong, black coffee drunk in a tiny cup at the end of a delicious meal.
When I think of bread, I’m imagining a bite of a fresh, crusty baguette, straight from the oven.
Perfume and France are synonymous to me. You can read more here: https://fancyingfrance.com/2017/08/01/fragrance
The smell of tobacco is far less apparent now that smoking is banned in restaurants and cafés. Sit on a terrace, watching the world go by, and you will still catch a whiff of Gitanes or Gauloises. At least, in my head, that’s what they are.
Then there are the ‘odours’ of France, as mentioned by my former students. The first one that comes to mind is sewers and/or drains, especially in cities. Admittedly, they are less pungent then they used to be but there is still that overriding ‘whiff’ in certain places, particularly on hot days.
I did a lot of research asked a few people which smells they associate with France and the majority agreed with my list. At least two people suggested the smell of Calvados, the apple brandy. I always think of Pastis. I love that strong aniseed scent. I remember travelling back from a course in Grenoble with a bottle of Pernod in my bag. The bottle got broken and it seemed to take months to get the smell of the drink out of my clothes.
Without doubt there are particular buildings that have a certain smell. French supermarkets can be challenging to the uninitiated, olfactory wise. I think it must be that heady smell of the fish counter mixed with the pungency of the cheese counter!
Churches, cathedrals and châteaux, all have their own particular smell, as do French collèges. The school I taught in, when working in France, had a distinctly different odour to the one in which I worked in London.
French markets, of which I am a massive fan, also have a distinct smell. Its a melange of fresh fruit, veg and flowers, mingled with cheese and overladen with the enticing scent of takeaway meals. Definitely not the type that we might be familiar with in the UK , rather those of rotisserie chicken, North African tagines and paella.
Are there any smells that you associate with France or any other country? I’ve never been to India but I can imagine that it is somewhere that would be an assault on all the senses but particularly on one’s sense of smell. I’d be very interested to know what you think!

Cigarettes and stinky cheese for sure!! I don’t love the cigarette smell but could live in the fromagerie ❤ YUM
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I’m with you on cigarettes and cheese! Thanks for passing by
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Yes, the smell of France was far more pungent some years or, let’s be honest, decades ago! I think the first time I went was in my late teens and the smell – wow! Gauloises first and foremost with a tinge of sewers – it was very very strong. That smell is no longer so apparent. I think you’re right about the supermarkets. Our supermarkets smell of nothing much at all, while French supermarkets smell of cheese!
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Haha – yes, you’re right! I started taking students to France in the late 70s/early 80s! On my first solo visit to France, aged 17, I can remember being horrified by ‘foot pedal’ loos, with just a hole in the ground. Thank goodness for strong balance ! I also associate the ferry fumes with France. We still travel Newhaven – Dieppe or we did…
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Even before I read your list, I was thinking about cheese and coffee, both of which I love. We were supposed to travel to Morocco for the first time at the end of March, but of course, the pandemic put a damper on that trip. Still hoping to get familiar with the exotic scents of that country sometime in the future!
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Haha, yes, cheese and coffee definitely are classic French smells! How disappointing that you didn’t make it to Morocco. It’s a long time since I was there but I fell in love with the country and especially Marrakech. I’d love to return and I hope you get there eventually. Thanks for commenting!
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Hah – I see the supermarkets got a mention! 🙂
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Yes! A few people mentioned the smell of French supermarkets to me. I’ll have to ask my French friends what Britain smells like to them!
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That would be interesting! Beer, I hope…
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Of course and fish and chips?!!
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It will be really interesting to see what they come up with!
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For me it’s lavender, we had loads of it in France and I’ve got loads here in the UK too. I need my fix! There is nothing better than a bowl of steaming mussels with garlic and white wine, to wake up my tastebuds too,
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I’m not that much of a seafood fan – sacrilege, I know – but I do like mussels in white wine and garlic. When my husband worked in Brussels, we loved moules -frites!
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Definitely lavender in France, and freshly baked bread. But they are more imagined than experienced since the only place I’ve been in France is Cannes where the overriding smell was one of expensive perfume! In Morocco the smell of spices in the souk was very exotic (and memorable). Amsterdam left me with long lasting memories of warm cinnamony Dutch Apple cake in the Newe Kafe in Dam Square. Other smells drifted out from the small cafes in the side streets!! I’m not sure I can think of smells associated with other countries.
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I must admit that I’m not a fan of the ‘other’ South of France! I’ve been to Amsterdam a few times and I think I can hazard a guess as to what the ‘other smells’ might be! I suppose that many of the smells associated with other countries are linked to food and flowers or blossoms.
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I was fascinated to see lemon trees lining the shopping street in (I think) Valencia. I sniffed, but no smell.
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For Tasmania, the faint aroma of thylacine scats defines the wildness of the territory. In our nanny state we now miss Gauloises, coffee is ubiquitous, and the acres of lavender planted for Chinamen blot the landscape. Fresh scat fragrance on the morning air, mixed with dewy accents, drives scent seeking hounds delirious. As the weeks age the scat, wind and rainfall dilute the fragrance which takes a woody, earthier more mushroom-like note, until as with all things biologique, it crumbles into soil. Yes, in our country it’s definitely the outdoor pungency of fresh Thylacine scat which defines us.
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